High printing temperature as PLA (235-255 ° C) Not suitable for higher thinner structures Nearly odorless during processing (I think it smells little like popcorn)Ĭan be printed without heated plate - the best printing results are achieved when the extruded filament is cooled immediately after exiting the extruder May break when it is printed too thin (you should have a minimum wall thickness of 2mm everywhere) Some printer cannot use flexible filament.Ĭan be easily printed compared to ABS filament.
Some printers are built for PLA only and are not able to print at higher temperatures. Most important is the printing temperature and the stiffness of the filament. What materials can be used for 3D printing depends primarily on the 3d printer.
Bunny furry model 3d blender download software#
What software is used does not matter much - as long as it can produce a polygon-model in OBJ- or STL-format.Īutodesk 123D (123D design, Meshmixer Thinkercad. A cheaper alternative to the LighWave Modeler is I mostly use an old version of LightWave Modeler to model - because I know the software and already have it. The models are aligned on the print bed in the 3D-printing software.įor printing, the model is divided into layers that are printed from the bottom up. The model is then cut to have a surface that can stand on the print bed. In NetFabb I check whether the model has flaws - and repair them if necessary. This model is then exported in OBJ-format Only 2 polygons should meet at each edge. The resulting polygon-mesh is then made to a model with volume - a wall thickness of 2,5-4mm works for me (3mm is usually ideal).Īll polygons should now consist of three points and the surface should point outward. When I'm satisfied with the surface the model is converted into a polygon model. In the first step, only the outer surface is defined. I could do the same with a polygon-model, but this saves me a lot of time - it requires software that can handle it. Unlike polygon-models, it is much easier to change the shape of a NURBS-model without having to adjust a lot of points. I start to model a head-base as NURBS model ( ). I bought the 3d-printer to have more spare time - the printer can do the work while I do something else - so far that worked very well. A big advantage of 3D-printing is that you can recreate a 3d-printed part again and again - this makes it much easier to try new things (without having the worry about breaking something that cannot be replaced) and it makes repairs very simple. If you want to make many items, it may be worth the costs. Initially, I'll have to say that 3D-printing for the construction of a single fursuit head is not faster, cheaper or simpler than any other construction method. I've tried several materials and settings to get the best printing results. I have made 3d-models for head-bases, claws, noses, eyelids, footpads and teeth. I'm making 3d-models for fursuits and hand puppets since 2014 and I print them on my 3d-printers (FlashForge Creator Dual, Anet A2 Plus).